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CELINE TRIOMPHE

A re-issued Icon

Shot on location
in Munich

There was huge furor when Phoebe Philo left Céline (sic!) in 2017. For over ten years, she had created and shaped a different image of women with her creations. Quiet luxury, without large logos. An adult minimalism. Smart, self-determined and simply cool. I was also a fan of her designs and still am. For many of us, her departure was a great loss for the label. But after ten successful years it was time to open a new chapter.

ANZEIGE

Fast forward: Today, CELINE is under the creative direction of Hedi Slimane. A completely different direction. It was the beginning of a new era. The Slimane era. It is his typical look. Just like he did it at Dior and Saint Laurent. But that’s just the point: when you choose a designer, of course, you always choose his look, his vision and personal aesthetics. Even if his Celine collections sometimes cause a stir and didn’t go down well with the “Old Céline” supporters (including me at first), you can’t blame him for disregarding the history of the house.

For many it seems as if he has changed the house completely from the ground up. But in fact, he’s drawing on Celine’s history and past. More than ever before. As always, the focus of his designs is on past decades, especially the time from the 1960s to the 1980s. This is of course nothing new. But it doesn’t always have to be. However, his examination of earlier decades in this way develops into something completely new – a new timelessness. A new classic.

A REINTRODUCTION OF OLD LOGOS AND MOTIFS: CRÉCY, THE CAMARAT INSIGNIA, THE SULKY LOGO AND THE TRIOMPHE WERE REVIVED TO NEW LIFE

But how do you get there? It is certainly not easy to create a new version of timelessness. Slimane consciously uses the archives of the French house. This includes the reintroduction of old logos and motifs. In addition to the Crécy and Camarat insignia, as well as the Sulky logo (a horse-drawn carriage used mainly for trotting, designed in 1966), the Triomphe logo is one of the most outstanding ones. Now it is used to decorate, among other things of the new collections, the bag of the same name, which could become a new classic.

The French word “Triomphe” has different meanings. “Triomphe” means “achievement” in direct translation, but many may know the term from the Parisian iconic landmark “Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile”. And yes, that association is accurate: Dating back to 1973, Céline Vipiana – founder of the maison – took inspiration from the famous Parisian monument. She created an emblematic icon, then known under the name of Blazon Chaîne. The logo does not show a direct image of the Arc de Triomphe, rather it was inspired by the motifs on the chain links that are still in front of the arc today. Of course, the shape of the bag resembles that of the Classic Box Bag. But there’s something special and also mysterious about the new icon. The overall design is still minimalistic und sleek, but the clasp gives it a more 1970s vibe.

A new-old identity. The new Celine look may not be trendy and hip in the classic sense, but maybe that’s exactly what the Celine woman is looking for. A cool and contemporary direction, which is simply beautiful and aesthetic, but still has that certain something.

But in fact, he’s drawing on Celine’s history and past. More than ever before. As always, the focus of his designs is on past decades, especially the time from the 1960s to the 1980s.

This is of course nothing new. But it doesn’t always have to be. However, his examination of earlier decades in this way develops into something completely new – a new timelessness. A new classic.

Dating back to 1973, Céline Vipiana – founder of the maison – took inspiration from the famous Parisian monument. She created an emblematic icon, then known under the name of Blazon Chaîne

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